Sarajevo in Lockdown: A City Silenced

In March 2020, Bosnia and Herzegovina imposed stringent lockdown measures to curb the spread of Covid-19. Sarajevo, a city of approximately 275,000 nestled in the Miljacka River valley and surrounded by the Dinaric Alps, saw its vibrant life come to a standstill. The cobblestone streets of Baščaršija, typically alive with the aroma of Bosnian coffee and the chatter of locals and tourists, fell eerily quiet. Schools, businesses, and cultural venues closed, and residents were confined to their homes, allowed out only for essential tasks. For a city that had endured the 1992–1995 Bosnian War, the lockdown was a new kind of challenge, evoking memories of resilience forged in adversity.

Jana Shamira lived in a cozy apartment in the Grbavica neighborhood, a short walk from the Miljacka River. As a freelance graphic designer, her pre-lockdown life was a whirlwind of client meetings, brainstorming sessions in Sarajevo’s eclectic cafes, and networking in the city’s thriving arts scene. “I was always on the move,” she writes in her diary, “chasing deadlines, gigs, and a version of success I thought defined me.” When Bosnia announced its lockdown on March 16, 2020, Jana’s world shrank to her 40-square-meter apartment, her laptop, and a view of a city in pause. Her diary, penned in a blend of Bosnian and English, captures how this isolation became a turning point for self-discovery.

---

The Early Days: Disorientation and Restlessness

Jana’s diary begins with raw honesty about the lockdown’s initial impact. “One day, I’m sketching logos at Café Zlatna Ribica; the next, my clients are silent, and Sarajevo is locked,” she writes. With projects on hold and social gatherings banned, Jana felt adrift. “I didn’t know who I was without my work, my friends, or the city’s pulse,” she confesses. This sentiment echoes global lockdown experiences, as seen in projects like The Guardian’s 2020 “Lockdown Stories,” where individuals grappled with the loss of routine.

The early weeks were marked by restlessness. Jana tried to fill the void with distractions—binge-watching Netflix, attempting viral lockdown recipes like sourdough bread, and scrolling through social media. But the quiet of her apartment amplified an inner unease. “The silence forced me to listen to myself,” she writes, “and I wasn’t sure I liked what I heard.” Questions about her purpose, identity, and happiness surfaced, unignorable in the absence of her usual hustle. This discomfort, though challenging, set the stage for her transformation, mirroring Sarajevo’s history of finding strength in adversity.

---

Rediscovering Creativity

One of the most poignant themes in Jana’s diary is her reconnection with her creative roots. As a teenager, Jana had been passionate about painting, poetry, and photography, capturing Sarajevo’s blend of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and modern elements. But her freelance career had shifted her focus to commercial design—logos, branding, and social media graphics for clients. “I was creating for others, not for me,” she reflects. “Somewhere along the way, I lost the joy of art.”

With client work scarce, Jana rediscovered an old sketchbook tucked away in her closet. She began sketching her immediate surroundings: the chipped teacup on her kitchen table, the stray cat that visited her balcony, the minarets silhouetted against the Sarajevo skyline. “Drawing became my escape,” she writes. “It didn’t need to be perfect—it just needed to be mine.” Inspired by her city’s resilience, she started a series of illustrations depicting Sarajevo’s history—its Ottoman bridges like Latin Bridge, Austro-Hungarian landmarks like Vijećnica, and war-scarred buildings reborn as cultural hubs. These artworks, shared on Instagram, resonated with local artists, sparking virtual collaborations that reignited her passion.

Jana contributed to a digital zine with Sarajevo creatives, blending her illustrations with poetry and photography to explore themes of survival and hope. “Lockdown made me see Sarajevo’s strength,” she writes. “It’s a city that’s been broken and rebuilt, and I was doing the same with myself.” Her creative revival reflects Sarajevo’s tradition of art as resistance, seen in wartime cultural initiatives like the Sarajevo Film Festival, which persisted during the 1990s siege.

Pro Tip: Visitors to Sarajevo can explore the Sarajevo City Hall (Vijećnica), a restored Austro-Hungarian masterpiece, for inspiration from its intricate architecture, much like Jana drew from her city’s heritage ($3/6 BAM entry).

---

Confronting Personal Fears

The lockdown also forced Jana to face insecurities that her busy life had masked. “I was terrified of failing,” she admits in her diary. “Every rejected pitch, every late payment—it felt like proof I wasn’t good enough.” The isolation stripped away distractions, leaving her to confront these fears head-on. She began journaling, a practice she hadn’t revisited since her university days, using prompts like “What am I afraid of?” and “What brings me joy?” to dig deeper.

Through journaling, Jana realized her self-worth was tied to external validation—client approval, social media likes, and the fast-paced rhythm of Sarajevo’s creative scene. “Lockdown showed me I was enough, just as I am,” she writes. This insight led her to set new boundaries, such as declining low-paying gigs and prioritizing projects with meaning, like designing posters for local charities supporting Covid-affected families. Online therapy, accessed through affordable platforms ($15–$25/session), helped her manage anxiety, providing tools to reframe her fears as opportunities for growth. “Therapy was like cleaning a foggy mirror,” she notes. “I could finally see myself clearly.”

Pro Tip: For travelers, the War Childhood Museum in Sarajevo ($5/10 BAM) offers a reflective space to engage with personal stories of resilience, mirroring Jana’s introspective journey. Plan for 1–2 hours to fully absorb the exhibits.

---

Deepening Connections

While lockdown physically isolated Jana, it strengthened her relationships in unexpected ways. Unable to meet friends at Baščaršija’s cafes or attend gallery openings, she turned to virtual platforms. She joined online art workshops hosted by Sarajevo’s creative community, connecting with painters, writers, and musicians across Bosnia. These sessions, often free or low-cost ($5–$10), introduced her to new techniques and perspectives, enriching her work. “We were apart, but creating together,” she writes. “It felt like Sarajevo’s spirit—unbreakable.”

Jana also reconnected with her family. Living alone, she had drifted from her parents and younger brother, who lived in Ilidža, a 30-minute tram ride away. During lockdown, she initiated weekly video calls, sharing stories of her childhood and learning about her parents’ experiences during the Bosnian War. “Their courage humbled me,” she writes. “They survived a siege; I could survive this.” Her mother sent homemade baklava, which Jana savored during these calls, turning simple moments into cherished memories. These interactions grounded her, reinforcing the importance of family ties.

Pro Tip: Explore Baščaršija Market in Sarajevo to buy ingredients like walnuts and phyllo dough for baklava ($2–$5), recreating the comfort food Jana enjoyed with her family.

---

Embracing Wellness and Simplicity

The lockdown prompted Jana to prioritize her physical and mental well-being. Pre-Covid, her schedule left little time for self-care. Confined to her apartment, she began practicing yoga via free YouTube tutorials, finding peace in morning sessions on her balcony. “It was just me, the sunrise, and the quiet city,” she writes. “I felt my body and mind reconnect.” She also took up cooking, experimenting with Bosnian recipes like čevapi and burek from her grandmother’s handwritten cookbook. “Cooking was creative, like art,” she notes. “And it saved money.”

Daily walks along the Miljacka River, permitted as restrictions eased, became a ritual. “The river reminded me life keeps flowing, even when it feels stuck,” she writes. These practices, combined with therapy, helped Jana find balance, turning her apartment from a place of confinement into a sanctuary of growth.

Pro Tip: Walk the Miljacka River promenade for free, scenic views of Sarajevo’s bridges and colorful buildings, a favorite activity for Jana during eased restrictions.

---

Finding Purpose Through Community

Jana’s lockdown experience was deeply tied to her community. Inspired by Sarajevo’s history of resilience, she volunteered to design free promotional materials for local charities, including food drives for families hit hard by the pandemic. “Creating for a cause felt different,” she writes. “It wasn’t about money—it was about impact.” Her work with organizations like Pomozi.ba connected her with other creatives, leading to a virtual art exhibition that raised funds for medical supplies. “We turned isolation into connection,” she reflects.

This sense of purpose shaped Jana’s future goals. She began envisioning a small art studio in Sarajevo, a space for local artists to collaborate and teach. “Lockdown showed me I could create on my terms,” she writes. “I want to build something that lasts.” Her diary closes with hope: “The world paused, but I found my path—toward myself, toward my city.”

Pro Tip: Visit Galerija 11/07/95 ($5/10 BAM) to understand Sarajevo’s resilience, which inspired Jana’s community work. The gallery documents the Srebrenica genocide, offering context for the city’s enduring spirit.

---

Sarajevo’s Lockdown Context

Jana’s story reflects broader trends in Sarajevo during the pandemic. The city’s history of surviving the 1992–1995 siege, when residents relied on the War Tunnel for supplies, fostered a collective resilience that shone through in 2020. Community initiatives, like virtual concerts and food drives, flourished, as noted in X posts from the time. Jana’s virtual collaborations mirror these efforts, showing how Sarajevans adapted to isolation. Globally, her narrative aligns with lockdown diaries in projects like Hindustan Times’ “Lockdown Chronicles,” where individuals found creativity and purpose in confinement.

---

Practical Tips for Visiting Sarajevo

Jana’s story invites travelers to explore Sarajevo’s vibrant culture and resilient spirit. Here’s how to plan a visit inspired by her journey:

• Getting There: Fly to Sarajevo International Airport (SJJ) from Istanbul ($100–$200) or London ($150–$300). Airport taxis cost $10–$15; buses are $3.
• Accommodation: Stay at Hostel Kucha ($10–$15/night, dorms) or Hotel Old Town ($40–$60/night) in Baščaršija, near Jana’s creative hub.
• Transport: Sarajevo is walkable; trams and buses cost $1/1.8 BAM. Taxis are $5–$10 for short rides.
• Costs: Budget $30–$50/day for hostels, street food ($2–$5 for čevapi), and free/low-cost activities like the Yellow Fortress.
• Must-Do Activities:
  • Wander Baščaršija for Ottoman charm and Bosnian coffee ($1–$2).
  • Visit the War Tunnel Museum ($5–$10) to understand Sarajevo’s resilience.
  • Hike or take the cable car to Mount Trebević ($10 round-trip) for city views.
  • Join a free walking tour (tip $5–$10) for hidden gems.
• Food: Try burek at Buregdžinica Bosna ($2–$4) or baklava at Rahatlook ($1–$2).
• Safety: Sarajevo is safe, but avoid unmarked areas due to rare landmine risks. Check FCDO travel advice.
• Weather: Spring (April–June) and autumn (September–October) offer mild weather (15–25°C).
• Sustainability: Support local artisans at Baščaršija Market and use reusable water bottles (tap water is potable).

---

Why Jana’s Story Resonates

Jana Shamira’s Lockdown Diaries entry, nominated as #31, is a powerful reminder that crises can unearth hidden strengths. The lockdown, though isolating, allowed Jana to rediscover her creativity, confront her fears, and build meaningful connections. Her journey mirrors Sarajevo’s transformation from a war-torn city to a vibrant cultural hub, where resilience is a way of life. For travelers, Sarajevo offers a chance to walk in Jana’s footsteps—exploring its historic streets, engaging with its creative scene, and finding inspiration in its enduring spirit.

Jana’s story also speaks to a global audience, echoing lockdown narratives in projects like The Lockdown Journal, where people found solace in reflection and creation. Her diary inspires us to embrace pauses, whether in Sarajevo or our own lives, as opportunities for growth. Visit this remarkable city, let Jana’s story guide you, and discover how even the quietest moments can lead to profound self-discovery.