The Context: Kisumu During the Covid-19 Lockdown
In March 2020, Kenya implemented stringent lockdown measures to curb the spread of Covid-19. Kisumu, a bustling port city on the shores of Lake Victoria with a population of about 400,000, faced unprecedented restrictions. Schools closed, public transport was limited, and a dusk-to-dawn curfew silenced the vibrant markets and fish trade that define the city’s economy. For rural communities around Kisumu, like Benard’s village in Nyando, the lockdown compounded existing challenges—limited healthcare, economic precarity, and reliance on subsistence farming. Yet, as Benard’s diary reveals, these hardships also sparked ingenuity and unity among residents.
Benard, a primary school teacher at a local government school and a small-scale farmer, lived in a modest mud-brick home with his wife, Grace, and their two young children. His life before the lockdown was a delicate balance of teaching, farming maize and vegetables, and community involvement. When Kenya announced its lockdown on March 25, 2020, Benard’s world shifted dramatically. Schools shut down, his teaching income vanished, and the markets where he sold his produce were restricted. His diary, written in a mix of English and Luo, captures how these disruptions became a catalyst for personal and communal transformation.
Benard’s Story: Navigating the Early Days
Benard’s diary opens with a vivid account of the lockdown’s initial shock. “One day, I’m marking exercise books and planning lessons,” he writes, “the next, the school is closed, and the radio says stay home. No warning, no plan.” In Kisumu, the lockdown meant a 7 p.m. to 5 a.m. curfew, restricted movement, and a ban on public gatherings. For Benard, this translated to no income from teaching, limited access to markets, and the challenge of supporting his family on a small farm. “I felt like the ground was pulled from under me,” he notes. “How do you feed your children when the world stops?”
The early weeks were marked by anxiety. With schools closed, Benard’s children, Mary (8) and Peter (5), were home all day, adding to the household’s demands. Grace, a seamstress, saw her orders dwindle as customers stayed home. The family relied on their small plot of land, but with markets in Kisumu city restricted, selling surplus produce was nearly impossible. Benard describes sleepless nights worrying about food, school fees, and the virus’s spread. “We heard stories from Nairobi,” he writes. “Hospitals full, people dying. In Nyando, we had no hospital nearby. Fear was our neighbor.”
Rediscovering the Land
One of the most profound themes in Benard’s diary is his renewed connection to farming. Before the lockdown, teaching consumed most of his time, and farming was a side activity to supplement his income. With schools closed, Benard turned to his land with fresh eyes. “The farm became our lifeline,” he writes. “It wasn’t just about food—it was about hope.” He expanded his plot, planting fast-growing crops like sukuma wiki (kale), tomatoes, and beans, using seeds saved from previous harvests to cut costs.
Benard also experimented with sustainable farming techniques, inspired by YouTube tutorials accessed via his basic smartphone. He learned to make organic compost from kitchen waste and use drip irrigation with recycled plastic bottles to conserve water. “I used to think farming was for old men,” he admits. “But lockdown showed me it’s science, it’s art.” His efforts paid off, yielding enough produce to feed his family and share with neighbors struggling to afford food. This act of sharing, rooted in the Luo tradition of nyoluoro (community support), became a cornerstone of his lockdown experience.
Pro Tip: Visitors to Kisumu can explore local farming practices at Kisumu Farmers’ Market (Saturdays, free entry), where vendors sell organic produce like Benard’s, offering a taste of Nyando’s agricultural resilience.
Strengthening Community Bonds
The lockdown highlighted the power of community in Benard’s village. With markets and transport limited, neighbors banded together to barter goods—maize for fish, vegetables for eggs. Benard’s diary describes weekly meetings under a mango tree, where villagers shared resources and strategies. “We were poor, but we were rich in togetherness,” he writes. These gatherings, held while respecting social distancing, fostered a sense of solidarity reminiscent of Kenya’s harambee spirit (pulling together).
Benard took a leadership role, organizing a small cooperative to pool surplus produce and sell it in Kisumu when restrictions eased. He also used his teaching skills to create informal lessons for neighborhood children, setting up an open-air classroom under the same mango tree. “I couldn’t let their minds go idle,” he notes. Using chalkboards borrowed from his school and worksheets he wrote by hand, Benard taught math and reading, ensuring kids like Mary and Peter stayed engaged. Parents contributed small amounts of food or labor in exchange, creating a reciprocal system that sustained the group.
Pro Tip: In Kisumu, visit the Dunga Hill Camp ($5–$10 entry) to experience community-driven eco-tourism and learn about local Luo culture, reflecting the unity Benard describes.
Embracing Family and Simplicity
The lockdown also deepened Benard’s family bonds. With no school or work to pull him away, he spent more time with Grace, Mary, and Peter. “Before, I was always rushing,” he writes. “Now, I saw my children grow.” Evenings were filled with storytelling, with Benard sharing Luo folktales about the trickster hare, Sungura, while Grace taught the kids to sew. These moments, simple yet profound, became treasures in his diary. “Lockdown taught me that happiness isn’t money—it’s laughter, it’s family.”
Benard and Grace also tackled household projects, like repairing their roof with recycled iron sheets and planting a small herb garden. Cooking became a family affair, with Mary learning to make ugali (maize porridge) and Peter helping wash vegetables. “We ate what we grew,” Benard writes. “No fancy spices, just love.” These rituals grounded the family, turning scarcity into sufficiency.
Pro Tip: Try traditional Luo dishes like nyoyo (maize and beans) at Mama Oliech Restaurant in Kisumu ($3–$5), similar to the home-cooked meals Benard’s family enjoyed.
Confronting Challenges and Finding Faith
Benard’s diary doesn’t shy away from the lockdown’s hardships. The family faced food shortages, especially in April 2020, when rains flooded parts of Nyando, damaging crops. “There were days we ate one meal,” he recalls. “I felt like a failure.” The lack of nearby healthcare was another worry—Kisumu’s main hospital, Jaramogi Oginga Odinga, was an hour away, and local clinics lacked ventilators. Benard’s faith, rooted in his Christian upbringing, became a source of strength. “I prayed under the stars,” he writes. “God didn’t send money, but He sent ideas.”
One such idea was using his smartphone to connect with NGOs distributing food aid. Benard registered his village cooperative, securing maize and oil for 20 families. He also taught himself basic digital skills, creating a WhatsApp group to share farming tips and coordinate aid. “Lockdown made me a student again,” he notes. These efforts not only alleviated immediate needs but also gave Benard a sense of agency.
Pro Tip: Explore Kisumu’s Kibuye Market (free entry), where local cooperatives sell produce and crafts, reflecting the community networks Benard built.
Redefining Purpose
As the lockdown eased in late 2020, Benard emerged with a new perspective. “The virus took much, but it gave me myself,” he writes. He realized teaching and farming were not just jobs but callings. Inspired by his open-air classroom, he began advocating for rural education, collaborating with local NGOs to provide books and solar lamps for students. His farming cooperative grew, supplying vegetables to Kisumu’s markets and creating a small income stream.
Benard also dreamed bigger. “I want to build a community learning center,” he writes, envisioning a space for children to study and adults to learn farming techniques. His diary ends with gratitude: “Lockdown was hard, but it showed me what matters—my family, my land, my people. I found my purpose in the silence.”
Pro Tip: Visit the Kisumu Museum ($2–$4 entry) to learn about Luo heritage and community resilience, which shaped Benard’s lockdown experience.
Kisumu’s Lockdown Context
Benard’s story reflects broader trends in Kisumu during the pandemic. X posts from 2020 highlight community efforts like food drives and virtual church services, mirroring Benard’s cooperative and faith-based resilience. The Standard newspaper reported on rural Kenyans turning to farming, aligning with Benard’s agricultural focus. Globally, lockdown diaries, like those in the Guardian’s “Lockdown Life” series, echo Benard’s themes of rediscovery and community, showing how the pandemic prompted universal introspection.
Practical Tips for Visiting Kisumu
Benard’s story, set in Kisumu, invites travelers to explore this vibrant city and its rural surroundings. Here’s how to plan a visit inspired by his journey:
- Getting There: Fly to Kisumu International Airport (KIS) from Nairobi ($50–$100) or take a bus (6–8 hours, $10–$15). Airport taxis cost $5–$10.
- Accommodation: Stay at Dunga Hill Camp ($15–$30/night, dorms) or Sovereign Hotel ($50–$80/night) for mid-range comfort.
- Transport: Boda-bodas (motorcycle taxis) cost $0.50–$2; matatus (minibuses) are $0.50–$1. Kisumu is bike-friendly ($5/day rental).
- Costs: Budget $30–$50/day for dorms, street food ($2–$5 for ugali and fish), and free/low-cost activities like lake walks.
- Must-Do Activities:
- Visit Lake Victoria for free sunset views or a boat ride ($5–$10).
- Explore Kibuye Market for local produce and crafts (free).
- Take a day trip to Ndere Island National Park ($20–$30, including boat) for wildlife and hiking.
- Join a cultural tour with Kipepeo Projects ($10–$20) to visit rural villages like Nyando.
- Food: Try fish stew at Mama Oliech ($3–$5) or sukuma wiki at roadside stalls ($1–$2).
- Safety: Kisumu is safe, but avoid walking alone at night. Use mosquito nets for malaria prevention. Check FCDO travel advice.
- Weather: Dry seasons (January–March, July–October) offer mild weather (20–28°C). Wet seasons (April–June, November–December) bring rain.
- Sustainability: Support local cooperatives at markets and use reusable water bottles (boil or filter tap water).
Why Benard’s Story Matters
Benard Otieno’s Lockdown Diaries entry, nominated as #32, is a powerful reminder that adversity can unearth strength and purpose. The lockdown, though fraught with challenges, allowed Benard to reconnect with his land, family, and community, transforming scarcity into opportunity. His story mirrors Kisumu’s spirit of resilience, seen in its history of overcoming floods and economic hardship. For travelers, Kisumu offers a chance to witness this vitality—through its markets, lakeside beauty, and warm Luo hospitality.
Benard’s narrative also resonates globally, echoing lockdown stories in projects like The Lockdown Diaries (UK), where people found meaning in crisis. His diary inspires us to find value in simplicity, whether farming in Nyando or reflecting in our own lives. Visit Kisumu, walk Benard’s path, and let his story remind you that even in the darkest times, we can grow, connect, and thrive.
